With nothing to defend, uphold or even embrace, the idea of “hipsterdom” is left wide open for attack. And yet, it is this ironic lack of authenticity that has allowed hipsterdom to grow into a global phenomenon that is set to consume the very core of Western counterculture. Most critics make a point of attacking the hipster’s lack of individuality, but it is this stubborn obfuscation that distinguishes them from their predecessors, while allowing hipsterdom to easily blend in and mutate other social movements, sub-cultures and lifestyles.
***
Standing outside an art-party next to a neat row of locked-up fixed-gear bikes, I come across a couple girls who exemplify hipster homogeneity. I ask one of the girls if her being at an art party and wearing fake eyeglasses, leggings and a flannel shirt makes her a hipster.
“I’m not comfortable with that term,” she replies.
Her friend adds, with just a flicker of menace in her eyes, “Yeah, I don’t know, you shouldn’t use that word, it’s just…”
“Offensive?”
“No… it’s just, well… if you don’t know why then you just shouldn’t even use it.”
“Ok, so what are you girls doing tonight after this party?”
“Ummm… We’re going to the after-party.”
***
Gavin McInnes, one of the founders of Vice, who recently left the magazine, is considered to be one of hipsterdom’s primary architects. But, in contrast to the majority of concerned media-types, McInnes, whose “Dos and Don’ts” commentary defined the rules of hipster fashion for over a decade, is more critical of those doing the criticizing.
“I’ve always found that word [“hipster”] is used with such disdain, like it’s always used by chubby bloggers who aren’t getting laid anymore and are bored, and they’re just so mad at these young kids for going out and getting wasted and having fun and being fashionable,” he says. “I’m dubious of these hypotheses because they always smell of an agenda.”
Punks wear their tattered threads and studded leather jackets with honor, priding themselves on their innovative and cheap methods of self-expression and rebellion. B-boys and b-girls announce themselves to anyone within earshot with baggy gear and boomboxes. But it is rare, if not impossible, to find an individual who will proclaim themself a proud hipster. It’s an odd dance of self-identity – adamantly denying your existence while wearing clearly defined symbols that proclaims it.
***
“He’s 17 and he lives for the scene!” a girl whispers in my ear as I sneak a photo of a young kid dancing up against a wall in a dimly lit corner of the after-party. He’s got a flipped-out, do-it-yourself haircut, skin-tight jeans, leather jacket, a vintage punk tee and some popping high tops.
“Shoot me,” he demands, walking up, cigarette in mouth, striking a pose and exhaling. He hits a few different angles with a firmly unimpressed expression and then gets a bit giddy when I show him the results.
“Rad, thanks,” he says, re-focusing on the music and submerging himself back into the sweaty funk of the crowd where he resumes a jittery head bobble with a little bit of a twitch.
The dance floor at a hipster party looks like it should be surrounded by quotation marks. While punk, disco and hip hop all had immersive, intimate and energetic dance styles that liberated the dancer from his/her mental states – be it the head-spinning b-boy or violent thrashings of a live punk show – the hipster has more of a joke dance. A faux shrug shuffle that mocks the very idea of dancing or, at its best, illustrates a non-committal fear of expression typified in a weird twitch/ironic twist. The dancers are too self-aware to let themselves feel any form of liberation; they shuffle along, shrugging themselves into oblivion.
Maz said
Yikes, well that’s a tad pessimistic.
I first noticed the hipster thing on a mass scale when I moved to a big city from a smaller mid-western one. In my home city, people wearing a uniform of American Apparel would be instantly marked as over-the-top and fake, the type you can tell bought their whole outfit in one sitting in one shop – something to be mocked. But in the big city, man! You go to a bar for a beer and they’re everywhere. The article doesn’t even mention what I think is the biggest and most mystifying hipster badge – the porno-style moustache. Me and my comrades have added a term we hope takes off to describe the whole pastiche look: creepster.
But I wonder if this article is just way too snide. Isn’t part of ‘hipster’ just the fashion style of indie rock music? I mean, isn’t this Bright Eyes and the Yeah Yeah Yeahs? I don’t think Bright Eyes or the Yeah Yeah Yeahs are culturally void or dead.
The stuff on fixed-gear bikes is astute. Though, careful observors will note that a lot of the bikes out there are actually just converted single-speeds. Look carefully when the cyclist turns a corner, if the skinny jeans/tights are coasting, it’s just a single speed. SSs are, to be fair, probably the best vehicle for most cities, except really hilly ones like San Francisco – they’re simpler, lighter, and easier to clean and maintain. Fixed gears? Hmm. It used to be that the only people who rode fixies were track enthusiasts or serious roadies. Riding fix trains your legs to pedal in perfect circles, so they’re usually used in the pre-season. Some track riders would ride modified versions that yes, included brakes, so they could ride them in the city on their way to the track, where the brakes would be disengaged. But why ride fix just to go 2km from your house to a bar? Dunno man. The only answer I can see is aesthetics. A fxed gear bike with no brakes is usually a pretty clean, beautiful machine – no cables getting in the way of the simplicity of two triangles and two circles.
The stuff on beer is funny too. Whenever i go to parties in proletarian neighborhoods, I notice that the beer and liquor is almost always top-shelf. I was at one party and someone actually slapped a Carling out of my hand and gave me a Heineken, as if to say, “you don’t have to drink that shit, man!” Of course, I’ll continue to drink that shit cause it’s cheap, and I’m cheap. But anyway, the irony here is that the hipster thing of drinking cheap beer to be more ‘prole’ actually misses the point entirely. Which leads me to another point: I’m not so sure if hipsters are ‘escaping wealth’ so much as they’re on a permanent involuntary ’slumming’ trip. Middle class jobs are really hard to come by, even with university degrees. Me and my roomate both work shit-jobs at different places where we can go in and discuss Zizek with our similarly-underemployed co-workers. This isn’t an ironic fashion move on our part or theirs – it’s the economy that isn’t giving anybody sweet fuck-all.
I think there’s all kinds of connections with the hipster thing on the ‘30 is the new 20′ phenomena. There’s a whole generation that is on a permanent run-away. Go to a hostel anywhere in Asia, Europe or India and check out the kids who have been on the road for a year, burned out and now content to just watch DVDs in the hostel lounge. And to be fair, or at least dialectical, can you blame them? Who doesn’t want to run away from some bullshit middle life with an office job and a mortgage that’ll chain you to a fucking desk till you’re 60. To update and butcher Joe Strummer: “I worked in an office for 3 months once, and luckily my internship expired.” I couldn’t stand the culture, I had no idea that middle-class workplaces were so different. Most striking was the total lack of a sense of humour, and then the unbelievably ritualized and structure dynamics of ass-kissing. Who wants that?
But what really jars me about the hipster thing is the overall self-centeredness and detached irony, this is where the real negative side is. Going to hipster bars are out to an indie rock show, it really does seems almost as if everyone is checking themselves out. And when you talk to a lot of these youth, d’you notice how little they actually seem to be into the music? Half of them are pissing me off talking through the show and blinding me with photo flashes for their facebook page. Saying something like “this artist was really important to me” is like putting up a weirdo flag – how unironic and sincere – like, fucking lame man. Unless of course, it serves to further talk about themselves, also part of this culture with its sort-of homogenized histrionic personality disorder.
The DJing w/ MP3 player is a perfect example. People expect they can be famous without talent, which for the most part you used to need. AND of course it’s a sreaming ‘look at me!’ things too – “look at my music, I’m fucking cool!’ Same thing with the aforementioned assholes heckling at shows – “notice me! notice me!” No, fuck you, you talentless hack, I came here to notice the guy on stage who makes the fucking art. Is this a youtube/nicole ritchie/laguna beach things where fame is now expected?
So that’s sad, this culture that’s craving for adventure, youth not feeling meaning in anything they do and seeking an escape in fleeting fame. But it is precisely a contradiction – it’s youth turning away from something without really breaking away. So, now that I’ve (mostly) joined a chorus of whining about it, can’t we switch gears and look to see how we can channel this into something positive? Surely there must be something good to be wrenched from a culture that despises a future middle-class routine, is seeking adventure and meaning, and wants to indentify, however misplaced the identification, with elements of working class culture…right?
For full disclosure, I do own a pair of skinny jeans, but my bike has brakes and derailleurs.
zerohour said
The author describes hipster as a counter-culture but I believe this is inaccurate, it’s more of a subculture.
The brief distinction I would make is that subculture are self-marginalizing and revel in it. Rejectionism is its main appeal. Counter-culture seeks to transform mainstream culture and become the new mainstream.
Obviously, hipster can never be mainstream, or it would be lamester.
These distinctions are not fixed, after all hippies are too marginal now to be a counter-culture, but they are useful to understand whether it is cynicism or optimism that is providing the basis for critique.
The hipster phenomenon is not new, and as before, it acquires its character from the defining politics of the moment. Hipsters will always maintain a degree of affected detachment no matter what the context, but the purposes don’t have to be the same. If we are successful in engendering a popular revolutionary politics, we can create a space in which hipsters are prefiguring a future with cool style, rather than play-acting their alienation with contrived mannerisms.
Kirvo said
I like the way Zerohour put it, being a subculture not a counter-culture. Reminds me of a video that a friend of mine showed to me when we went to an indie show to explain them: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PTbwCsjN4Ek
Maz, the last part of your post reminds me of the eXile’s article analyzing the difference in culture between Russia and the US as far as mainstream attitudes toward the elites go. http://exile.ru/articles/detail.php?ARTICLE_ID=6969&IBLOCK_ID=35&phrase_id=14955
Sorry that I don’t have much to say on the topic, as I didn’t have much contact with them before, and now, going to college in central Pennsylvania probably won’t either.
Linda D. said
Am probably way out of my league but this post got me to thinking. It’s all kind of ironic to me because “hipster” had very different connotations when I was a youth. Much more related to jazz, especially Black jazz musicians, and also the Beatniks. I considered myself a Beatnik for many years, starting when I was about 13. (On a personal note, my dear Dad, who was a musician and very much a dichotomy, took me to my first Beatnik coffeehouse at that age. But he had prepped me well, since he started sneaking me into jazz clubs at age 7.)
Douglas Haddow says:
“Ever since the Allies bombed the Axis into submission, Western civilization has had a succession of counter-culture movements that have energetically challenged the status quo. Each successive decade of the post-war era has seen it smash social standards, riot and fight to revolutionize every aspect of music, art, government and civil society.”
I would say that before World War II, there were movements and waves of radicalism, and Bohemianism (especially in the cultural sphere) with groups who came up against the status quo—often times on the periphery, but representative of an alternative to that same status quo. Some “counter-culture” movements were more radical and revolutionary than others, but more often than not, succeeded in tearing down some walls and barriers. Even before World War I, there was “The Women of the Left Bank”, Djuna Barnes, Sylvia Beach, James Joyce, Max Eastman, John Reed, André Malraux, etc.
About ten years ago I decided to reread all about the Beatniks, and of course re-read much of what they produced. Reason was—I was sick of hearing about the 50s being summed up as the age of Ike, golf, prosperity, and do and know-nothing-ism. And what I RE-discovered was the whole subterranean and tremendously prolific movement (in the U.S.) that existed during the Eisenhower/Nixon years and very early 60s. Just in terms of writers and poets, there was Amiri Baraka, Allen Ginsberg, Gregory Corso, Lawrence Ferlinghetti, Jack Kerouac (who became very conservative, unlike his literary comrades), Gary Snyder, William Burroughs, etc. (even J.D. Salinger and his omnipotent novel “Catcher in the Rye.”) Much of their literary contributions were both influenced by, and also had some influence on the world of music, most especially jazz. There was a cross-fertilization, and there was a definite undercurrent of radical thinking. I’d be amiss if I also didn’t mention (social) comedians such as Lenny Bruce and George Carlin. Organizations like SANE (against nuclear proliferation) had its beginnings around the Beatnik “phenomenon “, and the Beatniks definitely influenced the “counter-culture” of the Hippies.
Zerohour: “The hipster phenomenon is not new [anyone remember Jean Paul Belmondo in Breathless? I think he looked way cooler than modern hipsters], and as before, it acquires its character from the defining politics of the moment. Hipsters will always maintain a cool detachment no matter what the context, but the purposes don’t have to be the same. If we are successful in engendering a popular revolutionary politics, we can create a space in which hipsters are prefiguring a future with cool style, rather than play-acting their alienation with contrived mannerisms.”
Yes, Zerohour, for sure—Jean Paul Belmondo’s “cool” in “Breathless” became a role model for many and influenced many more even within popular culture. The films of Jean Luc Godard were sought after. There was a whole wave of “underground films,” etc. some with overt political content and others more subliminal. However, I am not all that convinced that a “type” or group “acquires its character from the defining politics of the moment.” Maybe I’m not really disagreeing with what you said, but it seems to me that in defining these different moments, one has to also check out the undercurrents and underbelly and subterranean movements that are developing at the same time, and that run counter to and are at odds with the more seemingly pervasive politics of the time. And I would venture to say that that includes the “hipsters” of today.
Found Zerohour’s following remarks very interesting:
“These distinctions are not fixed, after all hippies are too marginal now to be a counter-culture, but they are useful to understand whether it is cynicism or optimism that is providing the resources for critique. In a sense it mirrors Camus’ distinction between the rebel and the revolutionary.”
(Especially since Camus caused quite a stir, and rift, with “The Rebel” and was called out by the likes of Sartre as to Camus’ definition of Marxists, nihilists, dogmatists, and rebels vs. revolutionaries.)
who said
Why are you guys hating on hipsters? Who do you think all these sds kids are? Who do you think all the critical mass, zapatista-chic, critical mass riding, anti-rnc planning, indymedia publishing types are exactly?
Do you think sds conventions are a bunch of hearty young workers with rosy cheeks like something out of a socialist realism painting?
It’s a bunch of douchie hipsters sitting around complaining about being oppressed at their private schools.
If you work Sartre in to your excuses for staying home on election day then the hipster is you my friend….
Maz said
Nah…Who doesn’t get it. Anarchists aren’t hipsters, and the diss isn’t about lauding the fictional hard hat worker. Check this: annoying hipster douchebag
A hipster is precisely someone who gets upset when a band they like gets famous.
who said
I’m not talking about blackbloc teenage anarchists.
I’m talking about the 20-something trust fund loft “anti-authoritarians” that have 20,000 dollars worth of video equipment their parents paid for to make documentaries of “injustices and stuff”.
The subjects in your hipster video probably just got back from an sds convention…seriously. Same people, guy. Hate to break it to you.
who said
I remember one day I was having a conversation with some sds kids and people start talking about music.
I mention some rock band I thought had an ok album…
Sure enough one of the girls gets this disgusted look like “omg , yuch, I like their OLD stuff not that new album…” and gives one of those condescending hipster looks…
I wanted to say “Listen lady, I don’t even listen to fucking white people music I was just making conversation ok. Every time some cracker ass mother fucker brings up public enemy I don’t roll my eyes and get snarky I just nod my head and agree ok, stfu!”
But I just said “oh, ok” and then avoid sds hipsters whenever possible.
Eddy said
The general description is compelling, There is a substantial history of ‘alternate’ and ‘nihilistic’ cultural trends within ‘western’ societies all along the late 19th and entire 20th century. One might assume (I do) that highly stratified (capitalist) society and its oppressive narrative ’spontaneously’ engenders these types of oppositions.
(Or as Mao put it, ‘oppression breeds resistance’.)
By and large, youthful subaltern cultural trends (primarily developed by those in their teens and twenties) refuse to bind their aspirations to the status quo as an oppositional stance.
Some of these sub-cultural trends have remained primarily nihilistic, while within others at least a section have achieved ‘escape velocity’ into open opposition to the ‘dominant narrative’ politically as well as aesthetically. (e.g. late-teens Dadaist visual artists, late-20s Surrealist poets and writers, mid-century urban realist writers, mid-50s Beat poets, mid-60s Situationalist visual and performance artists, late 60s ‘acid rock’ musicians, late 70s Punk rock musicians, and on, and on.)
As the author partly recognizes, these subaltern cultural trends are also fields in which ideological and other forms of intense class struggle unfold.
c.f.
As the essay describes, this specific subaltern trend is full of internal contradictions, even to the point of participants refusing to be grouped with their peers. (Q: are you a hipster? A: hell no.)
Both the specific manifestations and the more general pattern are important fields in which we may find a) ‘ourselves’ and b) important friends and allies.
How broad a trend is this?
who said
From the anti-RNC group:
“Our media space – dubbed the Indymedia Lounge – in a fabulous fourth-floor loft in lowertown is NOW OPEN. We need MAX people there NOW. Also see our rockin press release. Buzzer #38, 300 Broadway St., St. Paul, next to the Black Dog Cafe in the Tilsner Artist Lofts. GO NOW!!!”
That’s about as hipster as it gets, lol.
Iris said
I feel silly because I grew up rural, and never had much contact with hipsters. (I’m 23) I live in Detroit now, and I know hipster haunts, hipster parties and hipster art galleries. What people call ‘hipster’ here actually seems to blend a pretty culturally diverse group of (mostly white) people: 30-something artists, to nihilistic teenagers sporting kaffiyehs.
Not all of these people are as nihilistic and ironic as the article makes them out. Some are sincerely into DIY culture, get shiny-eyed when they talk about local artists. An 18 year old girl who I assumed lived this empty coked-out cycle of hipster partying approached me today asking if there were any anti-war protests around that she could go to. The whole younger teen-aged scene is permeated with desperate emptiness, however. The internet has created the ability to connect to the ‘underground’, which becomes a currency. The condescending attitude to ‘mainstream’ art/media is plea for meaning, isn’t it? DIY culture and local art and music are attempts at sincerity. Anyone can hook up with local indie bands, find a hipster ‘art space’, go to after-after-after parties.
But how can you find meaning when symbols of rebellion–like bandana covered faces–are appropriated and regurgitated by corporations so quickly (thank you, internet) that literally nothing belongs or is created by the youth anymore. The focus on confrontation and space reclamation by young anarchists is a rejection of this corporate theft.
I’m trying to focus on people’s humanity here, instead of masochistically running down how broken the priveleged youth in this country are.
Adbusters, even when it is cuturally astute, always depresses the hell out of me. It isn’t [always] interested in breaking down the isolation that encases us all, but sells armageddon to the choir. We already know our culture is bankrupt. The world may be literally ending. We have never seen any proof that we have any power over our own lives. Rejection of sincerity itself is a collective mind in agony.
Help us find ways to create meaning!
Iris said
Who, the SDS people I know locally are working class white, black and latino kids from the urban center and the suburbs. Yeah, some of them have the ultra localized music tastes and fashion sense of a hipster, but they don’t carry an aura of despair and irony that the author above speaks to. They have decided to abandon that, consciously. If someone is organizing with black people and immigrants in my area to stop the war, or to make college univerally accessible or to call out imperialism and police brutality, do I give a fuck if they wear skinny jeans or black frame glasses? Do I care if they complain when the Black Lips sign a major record deal? No, I do not. Should people be prevailed upon to abandon affectations of privelege? Yeah sure. It should be discussed in this way.
Are kaffiyehs, Persian rugs and hookahs part of an American tradition of imperiaist cultural appropriation and people of privelege trying to feel wordly–yes. Are absurdly elitist localized music tastes part of internet access? Yes. Let us talk about these things as they really are, not just use ‘hipster’ as a catch all derision for the affectations of white indie teenage culture.
It actually matters to me, someone who wants to see youth organize, why different sections of youth feel empty and powerless for different reasons.
The SDS 2007 convention in Detroit had a bunch of different kinds of people–anarchist syndicalists, socialists (not the rosy cheeked kind), white kids dressed like hipsters, black environmentalists who protest the garbage incinerator in Detroit. The white anti-war faction of the liberal/left aren’t all ‘kids who go to private schools’. That is seriously bullshit, dude. Why certian issues bring out different groups of people–why more black people don’t support immigrant rights marches in my city, why mostly white people show up at anti-war demos, why more white people aren’t at police brutality demos–this shit has concrete implications and causes, and needs to be discussed and overcome. Not dismissed.
Iris said
Oh, and postscript:
My sissy is 21.
She wears skinny jeans, has an ‘eclectic’ localized music taste (lol, who doesn’t?), dyed-black hair and has even been known to dabble in ironic t-shirts. She also rode a bus to Jena to protest the racist courts.
So these kids have some silly affectations made possible by internet access (create your own tshirts, connect to underground music, create media). It is whether their lives are organized around meaningless-ness or not; whether we, the Left, are presenting them with viable alternatives for changing the world, for beating back despair and isolation.
Right now, we are not.
zerohour said
Linda -
You’re responding to an earlier version of my comment which I edited down. In addition to the reference to Breathless, I removed the reference to Camus because I didn’t want to get sidetracked into a wider discussion about that. I changed my mind because I don’t think contradictions in hipster culture even rise to the level of the rebel/revolutionary dichotomy.
“However, I am not all that convinced that a “type” or group “acquires its character from the defining politics of the moment.” Maybe I’m not really disagreeing with what you said, but it seems to me that in defining these different moments, one has to also check out the undercurrents and underbelly and subterranean movements that are developing at the same time, and that run counter to and are at odds with the more seemingly pervasive politics of the time. And I would venture to say that that includes the “hipsters” of today.”
This is a good point and I should clarify what I mean by defining. There are two senses in which that word is used. One is that an event or object confers its characteristics directly onto another. The other is one in which an event or object becomes the focal point of opposition and so defines the concerns of another. When speaking of subculture I use “define” in the latter way in the sense that punk defined itself in relation to 60s hippie culture and utopianism.
Hipster style is an indicator of hipster culture, but can be appropriated by others, so that’s not the issue. What characterizes a hipster is estrangement posing as rebellion. Instead of opposing consumerism, it demands a focus on different consumer items. Instead of striving to overcome alienation, it wants it to wear cooler clothes.
Prior subcultures did not always depend on a vital left to be oppositional to the mainstream. The fact that hipster culture is, at the moment, an acceptable “alternative” attests to the power of free market ideology in its co-optation of even the idea of rebellion. The transformation of “alternative” from a description to a genre since the 90s is a significant reflection of this and I think it merits more exploration.
Hipster culture is a reaction to a lifeless, uninspiring popular culture. Whether it plays an oppositional and creative role might depend on how we, as radicals, relate to those who move within its circles but are not fully immersed in its detachment. An attitude of disdain is not helpful but neither is lefty self-flagellation. We are not responsible for the substitution of hipster irony for critical thinking.
We need to create a powerful and lively leftist culture and practice that can influence the larger social terrain. In such a situation, the character of subculture can change. As I said before, this means the difference between opposition to an existing culture or shaping the contours of a new one.
Linda D. said
Hey Zerohour–
“Hipster style is an indicator of hipster culture, but can be appropriated by others, so that’s not the issue. What characterizes a hipster is estrangement posing as rebellion. Instead of opposing consumerism, it demands a focus on different consumer items. Instead of striving to overcome alienation, it wants it to wear cooler clothes.
“Prior subcultures did not always depend on a vital left to be oppositional to the mainstream. The fact that hipster culture is, at the moment, an acceptable “alternative” attests to the power of free market ideology in its co-optation of even the idea of rebellion. The transformation of “alternative” from a description to a genre since the 90s is a significant reflection of this and I think it merits more exploration.”
Both you and Iris have helped explain the current “hipster” subculture. I find this so ironic because I was no doubt trying to find things to unite with this “new” phenomena and undoubtedly because I know zilch about the hipster subculture of today. But the irony is–when “people” blanketly used to cry out “It’s Right to Rebel” (and not necessarily add “against reactionaries”) I used to pipe up with: depends on what they’re rebelling against, and the content of their rebellion.